View Full Version : Clicking sound in 4wd
Hi all,
So if any of you went to locker hill this weekend you would have noticed a clicking sound coming from the front of my truck. It's only apparent when I engage 4wd (high and low) It's louder when the drive train is under load and increases frequency with speed.
Any ideas of what it could be
Cheers
Greg
U-joint on the way out...
Steve F
14-02-11, 11:45 AM
Yep, I think we mentioned it on Saturday, front left Uni sounds shagged. I'd be sorting it soon rather than later before it goes completely and takes out an axle.
Cheers
Steve
Are you still running the stock axle shafts?
If so, then there is a know failure mode for the axle uni's as the caps are not properly retained and can escape which will destroy the axle....aftermarket axles using better retaining clips
Yea I was looking at overhauling the front. The guys told me about your diff miraz sounds like the kind of mod I'm after. May as well start organizing it now since I know these jobs take forever. So I guess the next question is who did the work to your diff and where did you source all the bits and Axels from?
Ok just got out from under the car chasing what the problem could be and I dont think it's coming from the diff or Axels. I found the gadget that is between the driveshaft and transfer case (sort of like a joint which allows the driveshaft to pivot) has a torn seal and has alot of play when I twist the drive shaft and hold that joint steady. It clicks exactly like what im hearing. The drive shaft is also on a very steep angle which is most probably causing the problem. I can adjust the front diff so that the shaft doesnt approach the joint at such an angle but then I lose my caster settings.
Steve F
14-02-11, 04:27 PM
So that would be a buggered CV then, I guess it would still be coming from the left due to the passenger side drop on the diff. You might have to look at replacing the driveshaft with a dual cardan driveshaft instead of a CV shaft. CV's don't like a lot of torque when they are at the maximum angle, if the boot has torn the CV has probably cut into it so just replacing it means it wont last that long before it buggers another boot.
Cheers
Steve
Yea figured that would be the case. Just checked out the dbor website. They have a front shaft to suit 37s and 6 inches of lift for $1100. Looks like the mrs misses out on valentines day coz the mistress JK comes first ;)
Steve F
14-02-11, 04:59 PM
Try Wooders as well, as a club member you get a discount so certainly worth a call.
Cheers
Steve
So that would be a buggered CV then, I guess it would still be coming from the left due to the passenger side drop on the diff. You might have to look at replacing the driveshaft with a dual cardan driveshaft instead of a CV shaft. CV's don't like a lot of torque when they are at the maximum angle, if the boot has torn the CV has probably cut into it so just replacing it means it wont last that long before it buggers another boot.
Cheers
Steve
Thanks guys for the diagnosis.
I have been hearing exactly the same sound from under my Jeep as well, although with a 2 inch lift and 33s only. I hear it when passenger side front wheel is at full droop and driver side is fully tucked in. Also I lost the front drive shaft boot about a year ago. Oh now I need a new front shaft (an after market one) :( .... Also a question to the expert panel here What u guys think is gonna happen if I leave it as it is. Will it just self destruct itself and I get a new shaft or it is gonna take something else with i t???...
Cheers and thanks for ur help guys
Mani
Try tomwoods for ALL shaft requirements. A really good guy and reasonable pricing. Always willing to help you out
Very Highly recommended. Tell him I sent you..www.4xshaft.com
Yea figured that would be the case. Just checked out the dbor website. They have a front shaft to suit 37s and 6 inches of lift for $1100. Looks like the mrs misses out on valentines day coz the mistress JK comes first ;)
You don't need the heavy duty 1350 shaft with the D30, the 1310 version is $300 cheaper and will do the job.
Mani - I've got my old stock shafts if you need a cheap replacement...
Finally someone telling me the "lesser" version will do the job. :) thanks for that. Checked out steveC suggestion and at half the price seems a good option.
"In a 1310 series the drive shaft is $449; a 1350 series price would be $649. The price is the same for either front or rear. These prices are for the complete package including required nuts, bolts, and flanges/yokes. We can supply a good fit by application information only but believe we can get the best fit if you will supply a simple length measurement."
Do the measurement....the diesel shaft is a different length from the petrol application
Replaced front driveshaft. No more clicking sound :)
It all dropped in ok then?
It was easy enough. Just those 8 8mm bolts were a bitch to get to. Took about 90 mins and 75 of them were on those 8 bolts lol
the ones on the transfer case end? they are a pain...
Yep them ones. With the new double cardan shaft those bolts are even harder to instal as the joints are in the way and it's a tight squeeze, even with a small 8mm open end spanner.
Naturally got rid of one noise to get another. Fanbelt is chirping slightly when cold :-/
Naturally got rid of one noise to get another. Fanbelt is chirping slightly when cold :-/
No sution to that but to get a new one. $76 from Jeep..........
No sution to that but to get a new one. $76 from Jeep..........
& watch out for the tensioning spring... $750+ for Jeep.
Yep them ones. With the new double cardan shaft those bolts are even harder to instal as the joints are in the way and it's a tight squeeze, even with a small 8mm open end spanner.
Naturally got rid of one noise to get another. Fanbelt is chirping slightly when cold :-/
i find that if you keep the diff end off then you can spin the shaft as needed....... works well for both taking it off and putting it on...
A further argument for aftermarket shafts.....
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