glend
21-03-13, 10:27 AM
I originally posted this over on AJOR and someone pointed out that the JKs have the same hitch clearance problem (assuming stock at the rear I guess without swing away mounts etc).
For those of you that tow with your KJs (or JKs) using a standard plunger ball coupling, you will have noticed that you cannot open your rear door (or not very far) before the door mounted tyre hits the handle of the ball hitch. Yes you could spend some money on a low profile hitch but there is a $10 mod that can be done to give you tyre and door clearance and still be able to operate the hitch lift-off handle. Here is how it works:
1. Cut off the handle loop at the bottom, leaving just the horizontal tabs and the locking spring finger. As per the first photo:
http://i555.photobucket.com/albums/jj454/glend1450/DSCF0468_zps8ebfe186.jpg
2. Knock out the pin that holds the internal ball plunger to the handle (helps to clamp it to a workbench so it doesn't jump out).
3. Replace the lock pin with a 3/16" SS bolt, 50 mm long is usually enough).
4. Make up two sides of a handle using SS or steel bar (aluminium will bend out of shape). You need to make two bends in each of the handle sides as per the photos.
http://i555.photobucket.com/albums/jj454/glend1450/DSCF0467_zps2232c955.jpg
5. Drill the handle sides for the 3/16 bolt at the bottom and a 10mm bolt hole at the top for the handle. See the photos.
6. Use a 10mm x 120mm bolt (about $3.00 from Bunning for the bolt, washer and nut). Slide a piece of water hose over the bolt to provide padding and allow rotation.
7. Assemble as per the photos and paint to suit.
http://i555.photobucket.com/albums/jj454/glend1450/DSCF0466_zpsb70c5dee.jpg
When you are travelling you can fold the handle down to the side and this allows you to open the rear door at any time. When you need to unhitch the towball simply pull the handle to the vertical position and pull it up to unlock the ball (you might have the lock on the safety catch as well).
I think the photos explain it all pretty well.
Tools Required: Angle Grinder with cutoff wheel and flap wheel, punch, hammer, wrench and screw driver should do it.
Legality: In NSW inspections of unbraked trailers is not required. I don't know exactly what the rules are in relation to hitch mods, but this one has been around on one of the Caravaner Forums for some time now and there doesn't seem to be any negative feedback. The mod does not affect the plunger/spring or locking design or operation, and it is possible to lift the plunger using just the remaining portion of the handle tabs.
Disclaimer: Obviously not all ball couplings are the same, but this mod should be workable (with some changes) for most plunger ball couplings designed for simple non-braked) trailers like box, boat trailers, and some campertrailers and caravans. The design originally appeared in a Caravaner's Forum and seems to have been widely adopted there. You should do nothing that makes your coupling illegal or non-compliant with the relevant standards. In posting it here I do not accept any responsibility for legality, compliance, etc.
For those of you that tow with your KJs (or JKs) using a standard plunger ball coupling, you will have noticed that you cannot open your rear door (or not very far) before the door mounted tyre hits the handle of the ball hitch. Yes you could spend some money on a low profile hitch but there is a $10 mod that can be done to give you tyre and door clearance and still be able to operate the hitch lift-off handle. Here is how it works:
1. Cut off the handle loop at the bottom, leaving just the horizontal tabs and the locking spring finger. As per the first photo:
http://i555.photobucket.com/albums/jj454/glend1450/DSCF0468_zps8ebfe186.jpg
2. Knock out the pin that holds the internal ball plunger to the handle (helps to clamp it to a workbench so it doesn't jump out).
3. Replace the lock pin with a 3/16" SS bolt, 50 mm long is usually enough).
4. Make up two sides of a handle using SS or steel bar (aluminium will bend out of shape). You need to make two bends in each of the handle sides as per the photos.
http://i555.photobucket.com/albums/jj454/glend1450/DSCF0467_zps2232c955.jpg
5. Drill the handle sides for the 3/16 bolt at the bottom and a 10mm bolt hole at the top for the handle. See the photos.
6. Use a 10mm x 120mm bolt (about $3.00 from Bunning for the bolt, washer and nut). Slide a piece of water hose over the bolt to provide padding and allow rotation.
7. Assemble as per the photos and paint to suit.
http://i555.photobucket.com/albums/jj454/glend1450/DSCF0466_zpsb70c5dee.jpg
When you are travelling you can fold the handle down to the side and this allows you to open the rear door at any time. When you need to unhitch the towball simply pull the handle to the vertical position and pull it up to unlock the ball (you might have the lock on the safety catch as well).
I think the photos explain it all pretty well.
Tools Required: Angle Grinder with cutoff wheel and flap wheel, punch, hammer, wrench and screw driver should do it.
Legality: In NSW inspections of unbraked trailers is not required. I don't know exactly what the rules are in relation to hitch mods, but this one has been around on one of the Caravaner Forums for some time now and there doesn't seem to be any negative feedback. The mod does not affect the plunger/spring or locking design or operation, and it is possible to lift the plunger using just the remaining portion of the handle tabs.
Disclaimer: Obviously not all ball couplings are the same, but this mod should be workable (with some changes) for most plunger ball couplings designed for simple non-braked) trailers like box, boat trailers, and some campertrailers and caravans. The design originally appeared in a Caravaner's Forum and seems to have been widely adopted there. You should do nothing that makes your coupling illegal or non-compliant with the relevant standards. In posting it here I do not accept any responsibility for legality, compliance, etc.