Onboard air tank / front bull bar
Hi Guyz
I finally got around to completing a project that has been in my head for years; turn my front bar into an air tank so I can run a rattle gun whilst out wheelin on a tough trail!
I installed my ARB compressor in behind my spare wheel - mainly because under the bonnet of my JK the temperature reaches that of Satans BBQ!
I then welded up the ends of my front bar to make it Air tight - drilled and tapped a brass drain plug and installed a quick release air outlet with non return valve.
I wanted to know the pressure so I added a PSI gauge to the right of my steering wheel.
Finally today I charged it up to 100psi (recommended by the manufacturer of my rattle gun) and attempted to get 1 of the wheel studs off that had been rattled on by an intellectually challenged tyre monkey! LoL - so tight that I bent my wheel brace trying to loosen it!
I hope you enjoy the write up as much as I will enjoy having my rattle gun on the trails
cheers
Hunty
ps - the last 2 pix are photobucket videos - just click in the middle of them to watch.
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Installed a 500amp Ameter
I have recently added 5 more 100w lights to my JK and was wondering how my alternator was coping, I also wanted to know just how much strain my winch was placing on my Alternator, battery and electrical system at different levels of Pull!
I now have 900w of light (Hi Beam) and according to my new Ammeter I am using 61amps out of a total of 160 (yes I got lucky and my jeep has a 160amp alternator)
To save you all the pain I went through - heres a couple of tips
1. buy a ammeter and shunt that reads up to 500Amps
2. if you buy off Ebay as I did and they don't supply any instructions or wiring diags then pls only connect the shunt between the battery neg and the jeep - eg disconnect the black wire from the battery and insert the shunt!
3.be very careful to connect the sensor wires to the shunt with the correct polarity - if you don't you will need to buy a replacement Ammeter with a few seconds!
Warning - Science content - What is a shunt - well it is a device with a tiny amount of resistance (75ma) so if you connect a load - (in my case 900w of light) to a battery and you connect through a shunt the voltage that you can read at the battery will be (if the battery is full) 13.8v and if you measure the voltage after it has gone through the shunt it will be approx .006v less - this tiny discrepancy is translated by the ammeter and displayed (in my case) as 61amps. - sorry for the science content Jeepers - LoL - but i'm sure at least 1 person wants to now!
I now it takes approx 250amps to pull a 3.5ton Patrol up a steep hill skidding and bellied out scrapping all the way up!
cheers Hunty
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Installed after market tyre Pressure & Temperature Monitor
Hi Guyz
I am loving my new tyre dogs - Pressure & Temperature monitoring (realtime)
I added the monitors to hopefully save destroying an expensive tyre or two whilst wheelin - I have programmed the monitors for on road and off road;
On road the low pressure alarm is set to activate when a tyre falls below 30psi and I usually run between 32 & 35psi
Off road I set the alarm to a couple of psi below my aired down pressure ; if I am on sand and am running 12psi I set the alarm to 10psi
Hopefully this will allow me time to pull over and fix a leak before I have chance to shred them driving on a flat tyre - as all of you know its hard sometimes to know when you have a flat especially if you are in MUD!
I bought the tyre dogs that screw onto the valve stem - dumb@ss I hear some of you saying already (Yom- LoL).
Why;
1. I wanted to be able to remove them and use them on hire vehicles.
2. They are coded to the wheel position so if (and I always do at half way) I changed the front tyres to the back - didnt want to have to break the tyre bead. just to relocate the monitors.
3. I often tow a trailer and will take the front 2 off and put on the trailer when towing - as you all know when the trailer starts to feel a little soft / bungee to tow its too late - tyre already shreaded.
Tip
When I screwed them onto the valve they protruded past the sidewall of the tyre - this was clearly going to be a bad idea for serious wheelin so I took another handful of smart@ss pills and modified my rims!
I found a wheel mod friendly tyre store and had them remove my tyres and drill 4 additional valve stem sized holes and installed 4 extra valve stems - 1 in each rim! as close to the centre of the rim and as far as possible away wheelin danger.
Bonus
Not having to remove them & replace them everytime I wanted to Air Down & Air Up
I can now air up with the Mrs comfortable in the car with aircon on - all she has to do is toot the horn when the tyres are back to road pressure - I don't have to continuously check the pressure - can do other things like reconnect my sway bars, wipe mud from lights and number plates etc
Enjoy Cheers Hunty
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Gears, Lockers & Evap can bash plate
Finally got rid of the 3.21's - which made my heap quite sluggish when I ran 35's
so I changed to 4.56's and ARB air leakers even though I currently run 33's MTZ's I like the 4.56's it gives me quite a good low 1st gear when rock hopping + their is still the smallest chance that one day I can get engineered on 35's
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Installed custom drawers - removed rear seat
The drawers really make touring in the 2dr JK much more pleasant - I made really big drawers - they filled up the entire TUB - plenty big enough for the Mrs & I to pack everything we needed for a 10,000km road trip into central OZ
A carpenter I am not! so I will not bore you with a dumbass how to. (especially as I have no idea anyway! LoL - lots of wood, screws and liquid nails!)
I will however point out a couple of "Jeep Thangs"
1. - the rear floor is not flat or level
2. - the rear seat mounts in the floor are not (in mine anyway) centered
3. - the tub, dont what else to call it (in mine anyway) is not square!
I got out a huge hammer to flatten the little metal tabs that the removable fiber/plastic storage cover slots into.
I have made a little access hole in order to utilise the small lower storage are.
Still to come (and I havent figured out the best way to do it yet) is some kind of Piano hinge on the front end - behind the driver and passenger seat to allow me to access the 2 large extra storage areas in front of the wheel arches.
Yes I made my drawers BIG! - i wanted to use all the available space in the back of my huge 2dr JK LoL - i didnt even use sliders because I wanted to maximise the space available for the drawers! - to ensure they slide I used 17mm 6 ply with the hard shinny finish and coated them with silicone!
I relocated the sub to behind the drivers seat - it fits in there comfortably and gives better bass in the front!
Covered it all in marine grey carpet and it looks like a bought 1!
cheers Hunty
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Custom Bars, Roof top tent & Awning
I set my rig up to do the Cape with the SJC and took it out to Uluru as a test - It tours really well - very comfortable.
I designed the bars myself as I wanted them to be very strong (to hold my fat @ss)
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Chime Busted - $5.00 - seatbelt warning 10c
Hi Guyz
This is perhaps my best mod ever!!!!
What the hell were Chrysler thinking!!! - who on earth wants to listen to that annoying chime just because they have opened their drivers door! or they want to slowly winch up a steep hill covered in mud and don't want to wear or dirty up their seat belt (especially if its a daily drive) (please always wear your seat belt because if you don't and your airbag goes off it will probably kill you!)
This mod will give you a switch to decide if you want your Jeep JK factory or quiet!
The only downside to this mod is - if you silence the chime you also disable the interior light sensor -(only on the drivers side) the light will still come on from the light control on the steering column and the passenger door!
What you need
1. Scotch Lock 25c
2. Red switch - Jaycar $2.95c
3. small piece of wire and some electrical tape.
4. Peace and Quiet - priceless!
Tools
1. philips head screw driver for the 4 screws in the door
2. allen Key for the hex head inside the door release
3. wire stripper and Soldering iron / solder
Step 1
Remove inside door skin - remove 4 screws and 1 hex head bolt
gently pry off the trim starting from the bottom of the door - just pull and you will hear the plastic locks popping of 1 at a time - go slow and and after you have released the bottom of the skin lift the door skin up to clear the bottom of the window lip - carefully remove the plug to the central locking switch.
Step 2
cut the purple wire - sorry the photo is little blurred
Step 3
drill hole for switch - any where you like! - theres plenty of options re space for a switch!
Step 4
insert and wire up switch to purple wire.
Step 5
replace door trim.
Step 6
clamp scotch lock onto green and black seatbelt sensor wires under drivers seat.
Step 7
Brag to your friends that you can open your drivers door and not have to put up with the endless annoying chime and the stereo stays on - you can go 4x4 wheelin with your seat belt off and not have to listen to the annoying chime - please always wear your seat belt because if you don't and your airbag goes off it will probably kill you! or at least break your neck! :(
Enjoy
cheers Hunty
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Official proof I am Loosing it - AKA incab winch control lol
Hi Guyz
I woke up sunday morning and all was well, Bathurst 1000 on the TV, a perfect day brewing until - I had a great idea - why not install a switch inside my Jeep to run my winch!
So I took a fistful of smarta$$ pills and begun!
I decided I wanted to keep the original SmittyX wired remote and add a wireless transmitter / receiver and a switch inside the cab near the steering wheel.
After much sitting around and watching the great race I realised that I really should install some kind of hidden switch to disable the winch so when I park it with the roof off people will not be able to reach into my cab press the winch out button and easily rip off my dyneema rope (which I keep tightly spooled onto the winch - so tight in fact that the mechanical free spool release can't be operated until some slack is created by pressing the winch out button for a few seconds.
I grabbed another handful of smarta$$ pills and realised immediately that if someone with a smittyX wired remote control really wanted my dyneema rope they could just plug their winch control into my winch and spool it all out - so I needed a master lockout switch preferably in the cab and preferably with a key
finally I got motivated to do it and thought what if someone sitting inside the cab (baby sitting the steering wheel and brakes) were to press the winch out button whilst I was outside the cab overseeing the winching and pressing the winch in button on the smittyX remote or the wirelss transmitter "would the winch blow up in spectacular fashion??? (If you know what happens please post up) - a lockout of some sort needed to be engineered!
quick tally up
1. Wired remote
2. Wireless remote
3. Incab switch
4. Master lock with key switch
5. electrical lockout system
I went to the wreckers because I knew that car window switches have a lockout system built in to stop dad in the front and little johnny in the back both pressing opposites (up & down simultaneously) and blowing up the window winder
I wanted a slimline switch - i had seen other JK Jeeps with Arb switches mounted in the A pillar and wanted to try to get a little more subtle installation so I found a nice (LoL) SSangyong Musso 4x4 at pick a part and extracted its rear window switch.
Holdens still leading so I got bored with the race and started to sketch possible circuit diagrams (as per pic lol) and realised that I would need at least 2 relays to ensure fool proof lockout
Final tally
1. Wired remote
2. Wireless remote
3. Incab switch
4. Master lock with key switch
5. electrical lockout system inc 2 x 12v relays with N/O N/C contacts
6. Hookup wire
7. Fuse holder and fuse
8. Convoluted plastic split tube to protect wire going from Cab to winch
9. 3 way selector switch - Jaycar i off ii
10. 2 more boxes of smarta$$ pills - because this became a real noodle scratcher
Step 1
cut in switches - i preffer to use a piece of cardboard and cut a hole with a stanley knife and test fit my switches in the cardboard first - when I get the perfect fit I trace the hole onto the A pillar and then cut with a sharp knife and file with a metal file to get the hole as perfect as I can!
Step 2
open the passenger door, remove the side dash pannel and you will see a hole blocked with yellow insulation material, get a big screw driver and poke through it - you now have acess from cab to engine bay - install cable
Step 3
wiring, soldering and crimping
Basic wiring concepts
1. the key interrupts the 12v coming from the winch controller b4 it gets to a) the in cab switch b) the wireless remote and c) the standard smittyX wired remote control
2. The little switch (i off ii) is connected to both relays (i) to relay 1 and (ii) to relay 2 - 12v positive in ---- the negative in is connected to the Jeeps earth - when the switch (i) is pressed the relay (1) is activated the same goes for switch (ii) and relay 2 - --- because the relays provide a N/C output (N/C stands for normally closed - relay output is on even when the relay is not energised) it is possible to wire the incab switch through the relay N/C connection! ---- this will mean that when the switch is pressed (activating the wireless or wired remotes) and the relay is activated the in cab switch will get disconnected. (sorry if I am making no sense - run out of smarta$$ pills - LoL - if anyone can better explain this little relay magic please post up!
3. Connect everything up but keep the main 12v feed (350amp big red cable) to the winch off the battery incase of any D'oH fickle finger of fate actions - test with multi meter to ensure all works as desired.
in conclusion
The Key is the Master switch
the little switch determines which of the 3 input options will go to the winch
Wired remote, wireless remote and in cab switch
It all works well and looks neat and I don't have to worry about blowing up my winch
If anyone has any suggestions on how to improve the system please post up
enjoy
cheers Hunty
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New Rubicon Express rear springs and perches
I noticed that my heap was running on bowing rear springs (Misaligned) caused by lifting the suspension with extended length springs by the moron who regularly drives it! (me)lol
I am loaded to the MAX 40ltr extra fuel + 40ltr extra water roof top tent, cooking gear & fridge, tools hi lift jack, all my work equipment, my lightweight draws NOT !, spares clothes etc!!
I suspected that the springs on full flex where bottoming out possibly worse - pinching and maybe damaging them - ( I need to add appropriate bump stops)
I just recently picked up a huge Swag from TassieJK (Thanx again Mal) which included really nice rubicon express springs and Spring perch realignment brackets and adjustable rear track bar - all of which I installed today!
I am the worlds biggest Idiot!!! - what was I thinking tackling this job in the carpark @ Rundle st Mall (whilst the Mrs shopped).
1. whist Jeep is fully loaded and b4 jacking - attach spring compressors (it just makes it easier to compress them) and compress the cr@p out of them!
2. Remove lower shock mount bolt.
3. Jack up jeep remove tyre.
4. Optional - remove trackbar - i did just to make access easier
5. Remove already compressed spring.
5. If you are smart ( I wasn't lol ) use angle grinder to remove factory perch - if you are a complete moron (yes thats me lol) piddle away at them with a useless hacksaw! for 6 hours - then be so totally buggeredx that driving back to camp is near impossible LoL
6. bolt on new adjustable perches!
7. re install springs - (in may case compress new springs first).
8. put tyre back on
9. drop jack slowly and check the springs have centred perfectly.
10. re attach lower shocky mount bolt and re attach track bar
Enjoy the feeling of your new jeep - and your handiwork or what ever LoL
cheers Hunty
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Rear trackbar mount upgrade
Wheelin out @ Wheeny Creek! - JK vs TJ
"Carpark King" or "I need a hoist"
Decided to replace my Ball joints this morning (OK - had the decision made for me - Whilst driving home last night my front drivers side wheel did its own little death wobble dance- Lol)
So I jacked it up early this morning at work 5am!
Couldnt budge the succer a micro millimeter - so I rang the one and only deadset Jeep Legend / Guru - Dave Woodley "Wooders" and he kindly lent me his ball joint tool!
all seemed to be going well until i realised that i had pressed the bolt outta the top of the ball joint @#@%$@# - is this a bad thing? - see pic below
Anyway with much muttering and swearing I finally got the old ball joint out!
How the hell do you get the new one in??????????? - so I figured if it (the old one) pressed out I could press it (the new one) back in! - easier said than done!
BTW did I mention I that I didnt take off the disc or brakes or pulled out the axel - had some oil leak issues and just recently had the seals replaced so didnt want to disturb them!
OK It was a shed of a job to do in on the lawn at work! lol
but at least I am mobile again!
enjoy laughing at my pix
cheers Hunty
ps
Jk ball Joints & TJ ball joints are the same - cause I just installed TJ joints in my Heap!
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Wired HDH Switch Install - Hunty's Heap
Wired HDH Switch install
I bought the Wired HDH's to solve my switch needs - it will operate 8 devices;
The stupid daystar rockers were for me, a complete fail ! - every time I changed gear (1st,3rd or 5th) the switches would be activated by the gearstick:mad:
as any JKer knows there really isnt a lot a switch available real estate so the WiredHDH will be very popular amoungst Jeepers
I wanted to control;
Front Locker
Rear Locker
ARB Compressor
Winch Master isolate
Winch bar spotties
Roof bar spotties
Rock lights
Rear spottie / work light
The System comes with a thin membrane type switch panel, a small ribbon cable and a black box for all the connections. also comes with cable + connectors and circuit breaker.
There are solid state connections for the 8 outputs, these are rated @ 2.5amps each and are continuously monitored by the cpu and if overloaded will cut out, they will cut straight back in when the current returns to <2.5a or the problem / short circuit is fixed!
There are connections for 12v+ 12v- permanent feed from battery - circuit breaker included
and a connection for 12v in feed from acc position on ignition key.
All 8 outputs can be programmed to be ACCessory dependent or ACCessory independent.
All 8 switches can be programmed to be on/off or momentary.
The Wired HDH system continually monitors batt voltage and will shut off Accessories (all 8 outputs) when the voltage drops to <11.5v
Armed with a bottle of Sm@rt@ss pills I began to plan the install!
I decided that I did not require the ACC interlock option because I wanted to be able to use any of the 8 outputs independent of the Jeeps ignition.
Thats when the smart @ss pills kicked in -LoL
In my previous installation I wired my winch master power relay through a simple key switch - I did this because I did not want anybody using my winch without my permission'
(I was mainly thinking of my L & P plate kids, stupid mates and all the urban myths that tell of landcruisers having there winches hotwired and connected over the roof to the towbar and left by hoodlums to eventually fold in half).
Then I realised that if a mechanic, parking Valet, dum@ss mates or kids were driving my Jeep that I did not want them using any of my 8 accessories either - especially the lockers!!!
so I wired the ACCessory 12v input to permanent 12v+ supply via my key switch and programmed all 8 accessories to be Accessory 12v input dependant! - Yes! SM@RT @ss pills at work!
So when I turn off the Key switch all 8 outputs are disabled! -
I still retain the ability to re program the HDH (very simple button push sequence) so any or all 8 outputs effectively bypass the key switch lockout!
One of my next projects is to install a dual battery system but until I get it installed I can count on my new Wired HDH switch controller to kill my winch master relay at 11.5v thus saving my entire electrical system and Battery!
"Brilliant" thats all I have to say to the WiredHDH company!
cheers Hunty
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ps
I still have a little finishing off to do under the bonnet the stupid Jaycar 60a circuit breakers cannot survive Satans sauna and I need to install a bit more convoluted cable protection!
More Installation details - Wired HD switches
more detail as to why I installed my Wired HDH panel the way I did
I am happy when winching to stop and let the battery recharge a little especially when it drops below 11.5v that IS the reason I wired the winch master solenoid via the WiredHDH System I want that protection! (I am about to add a huge second battery and don't expect to see 11.5v very often)
My understanding of Ohm's law (I think it was Ohm) is "as voltage drops current rises?"
ergo lets say for instance pulling a 4T Landcruiser on its belly up a steep hill currently draws 330amps @ 13.8v (I have done & observed this on my 500amp shunt meter) but if i winch too long and let the voltage drop to 11.0v then the current drain will escalate up to a whopping 414Amps?? for the same amount of pulling power
this is over 80amps difference and a significant extra stress on all electrical components ranging from alternator, Battery, cabling, relays, solenoids and the winch itself!
I am just about to install a big ;
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Battery to run my 2000w inverter and assist in providing extra capacity when winching. - http://www.batteriesdirect.com.au/sh...pc2150mjt.html
I am often filming when my rig is recovering vehicles and it is my preference that my Jeep protect its self and not suffer any kind of equipment failure due to inexperienced or careless operators, who might just continue to winch until everything blows up / overheats runs flat stalls or breaks!
Location of flat panel control surface;
I chose to stick it on the top of my CB over the following other options (I'm sure there are plenty more)
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On top of the steering column
On the dash just above the instrument cluster
On the sunvisor - I really liked this option and it came in 3rd
On the windscreen plastic trim infront of the sunvisor - I actually installed it here - didnt like it - moved it to ontop of the cb
On the A pillar vertically
just above the speaker on the drivers side front
in place of the daystar switch panel in front of the gear stick
I liked "on top of the CB" because;
Ease of accessibility when wheelin - as those of you NoN Web Wheelers will know, sometimes you have to get to your locker switches instantly (especially when you need to turn off your front locker to regain steering lol)
My beautiful copilot (who wheels with me all the time - yes I am a very lucky guy - my Mrs enjoys wheelin!) can operate the switches for me (as I said before sometimes you gotta turn off that front locker to regain steering - and if your busy sh#ting yourself LoL and are transfixed to the view out the front window, it is usefull to be able to instruct said copilot to turn em off for you LoL)
Despite all my mods and what you all think - LoL - I am not keen on digging holes into my dashboard!!!!!!! LoL
The ribbon cable slips easily between my CB's metal lid and plastic front panel - installation was easy! and I can move it / change my mind with little penalty - and those of you who read my build thread will know that my Jeep does / WILL always be undergoing improvements / changes LoL :hammer:
I look forward to any comments / suggestions
cheers Hunty
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Spotted Noah floating by in his Ark earlier!
Jumped into my heap this morning and noticed that the Mrs had her own footspa! lol
Jeep have had a go at stopping the roof top leak twice and will get another opportunity latter this week!
so in the meantime I bought the factory original "Jeep spares" OEM .......
tarp!
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...y/4d7a1230.jpg
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...y/b0e69180.jpg
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...y/b95a704c.jpg
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...y/26847737.jpg