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New snorkel fitted today, so figured it's as good a time as any to post in this section!
Mostly stock with exception to a 2" lift/30" mud tyre combo, plenty of lighting, UHF. Extractors are also a recent edition after the trademark cracked factory manifold prevented passing rego.
Pics of new snorkel in my gallery http://www.sydneyjeepclub.com/index....g2_itemId=3700
About time you posted up or CHERO ;) Looks good nice work :)
Retired the Uniden UH-013 from active duty yesterday, it's given me close to 10 years of service in various vehicles, but having the selection knob working intermittently is a problem when most of the functions depend on it! :)
Sitting in it's place (a bit to the left actually) now an Icom IC-400PRO :D
New dual battery system installed last weekend (dual alternator system on the back burner for now :p)
On the advise of Steve F I purchased two Supercharge Gold batteries, size MF50. I also purchased a Piranha auxiliary battery tray and 100A Redarc isolator. The batteries are connected with 2 gauge cable with an upgraded 2 gauge ground between the main battery and body. I bought the cable and most of the terminals from Jaycar, the negative wingnut terminals from Supercheap. The cost of the terminals with the integrated voltmeter was identical to those without ($30), so I went for individual voltmeters on each battery.
The Redarc cut out voltage is 12.7V, as you can see in the photos the voltage is at 12.8V and the isolator is still connected. Once the charging voltage is detected (~14V) the isolator connects the batteries after a few seconds, ensuring the main battery has priority. At this stage I haven't connected the manual over-ride, but will do so in the near future with an indicator in the cabin. Running off the aux battery is all the main beam and auxiliary lights, UHF, and rear outlet for the fridge.
It won't save my alternator, but at least I know I now have 3.5 hours of reserve capacity under the bonnet :)
Looks good!
wow I didn't think it's possible to fit second battery under the bonnet of xj
Easy :) Mines been under there since 2002 now and still going strong (at least now I have the Supercharge batteries) One thing I have noticed is get decent batteries, with a good warranty etc, you get a lot of heat under there and heat kills batteries so a good strongly built battery is important when you take up even more under bonnet room.
Cheers
Steve
OK, so when you coming over to do mine! hehe... but we must talk some time Scotty!
Hi mate, could you tell me more about yours 2" lift kit/30" mud tyres please...Quote:
Originally Posted by sbadman
Cheers
Lift is simply 2" spacer blocks, you can get it as a Rubicon Express kit from Wooders with the shocks. I bought the blocks 2nd hand cheap and the shocks separately when the old ones felt worn out enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by gomesoceano
Tyres are Maxxis Buckshots in 30"x9.5"x15", I paid $180ea from Bob Jane, but I believe they can be had cheaper than that. Alternatively the Nankang Mudstars are exactly the same pattern but possibly a slightly different compound, Pm Cpage66 for more info, as he runs them on his rig.
Near disaster today while Kay was on the Hume heading to Wollongong. The bolts holding the uni to the rear diff pinion sheared off resulting in a loud banging as the tail shaft hit the ground, muffler and rock light. The output shaft housing was also cracked, spraying ATF on the exhaust with plumes of smoke resulting but thankfully no ignition. Ended up limping it home in front wheel drive.
Wow Scott I imagine she was pretty scared by all of that. What would cause the shearing of the bolts (I've heard of them working loose but not just snapping off). Was she towing a horse float or something like that?
She was towing the float empty at the time, however I always figured, being a Dana 35, that an axle would go before something like this!Quote:
Originally Posted by glend
Must have been one hell of a fright!!!
Very odd, the tailshaft been out recently? My old Kombi (ran a 4.4lt V8) used to snap driveshaft bolts all the time at the wheel/CV end. Turned out any slight play in them or looseness no matter how small was enough for them to receive shock loading and snap, bear in mind though this Kombi would wheel stand so it was a BIG shock load. To stop it doing it I had to fit a wave washer and lots of loctite, would hold together just fine. So basically what I'm saying is if there was any chance they had loosened then its possible for a bit of load to snap them.
Cheers
Steve
The rear driveshaft is one part I've never touched! Kay did say she felt a vibration pulling onto the M7, but it went away after a short bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve F
I've already started sourcing parts to repair the damage, starting with a NP242 off SteveT today. Like new, only been tipped upside down once :D
Do not like this "timed out" from using/posting once already logged in... waste's a lot of time.. tried to copy this but unable to do so because I used a quote from Scott B. as informed by my comp.techs' at home.......
---I've already started sourcing parts to repair the damage, starting with a NP242 off SteveT today. Like new, only been tipped upside down once :D--- Scott's quote----.
Haha.... lost all the smiley thingy's as well, not that impressed.........
Have an ZJ tailshaft ?? does anyone know if it will it fit an XJ( both have/had a D35 diff)-- length issues etc??. You can have it Scott if needed ( least you know it will stay on even with extreme 4wd usage-- bring back the smiley thingy's please, been smiley deprieved lately??).......................Stephen T.
the straps and small bolts on these yokes are a common fail
replace yoke with one that takes u bolts
Hey Scott, if ya need a hand or a foot give me a hola......
What's left of the idler pulley after today. Seems the bearings have fried themselves, with the result of the pulley falling apart from the middle. Will be checking the wreckers tomorrow for a replacement. Got to experience how quiet the motor is without the A/C bearing whining at least!
I'm pretty sure a VT Commodore one is exactly the same and around $30, maybe just take it into Repco and see if the dimensions match.Quote:
Originally Posted by sbadman
Cheers
Steve
Hardparts in Marayong/Kings Park had them in stock last year when I had to replace all the pulleys etc last year on the ZJ...Were cheapest price at the time as well..... I have a look to see if I have any here at home left..............
Cheers for the tip!Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve F
Thanks Steve, how cheap was cheap at Hardparts? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by stevet
I"ll probably take the pulley into Repco first at Penrith this arvo and get it matched up to a Commo one, unless you're able to find one at home? :)
Went the Repco/Commodore route, $31 for part number RPU501. Smaller in diameter but lines up where it matters!
New sliders/steps!
Main part is 2x2" box section with a 1" angle attaching to the pinch weld. Arms to frame are 2x1" box section with 2" angle used to mount to the rails. Step is simply 1" box rolled to shape and covered in aluminium checkerplate.
So no more dings on the sills. finish in the pic looks professional.
Cheers Mani, and no, no more dings in the sill. The checkerplate sill cover above the step hiding the existing dings reinforces that :DQuote:
Originally Posted by TRBN8R
They look good and sound solid, sliders/steps are always handy :)
Cheers
Steve
They Do look good, i like the way you used the checkerplate, nice work scott......
New exhaust fitted Friday...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99cCKrYqYtk
Much improved note to it now Scott..:)..................
Me like...! Any "seat of the pants" difference in a HP gain felt??
Unfortunately I haven't been able to give it the full berries, my exhaust guy said he noticed the rear driveshaft had a bend in it, about 10mm deflection. When I looked underneath I found one of the 4 u-joint strap bolts missing and one leg of the uni completely flogged out!Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpage66
I've ordered a new u-joint and a pair of u-bolt conversion kits (front & rear), and will look at getting the driveshaft straightened rather than a whole new one. Budget won't quite allow for a SYE & CV driveshaft at this time!
Well the 'budget' got torn to shreds didn't it!
After some weeks in the shop (J Mac Diff & Gear), I now have a Chrysler 8.25 rear diff from Wooders with 29 spline shafts and 4.10 ratios. The front was also regeared to suit, with all bearings replaced, U-bolt kit installed, and the Lokka reset in the replacement carrier (thanks SteveT!). The rear driveshaft was shortened and straightened, and new unis put in.
Gears aren't bed in so no full throttle take offs yet, but what a difference already! Especially as I'm still running on 30's, I've got the power back and then some from stock.