Hunty's Jeep JK Extreme

[Hunty]

I finally got around to installing my CB (cut the cables ties that were holding it onto the top of the dash LoL)
I have looked and looked for a CB with a remote control on the Mic that I could bury behind the dash but alas I could not find 1 that would do both the old 27Meg & UHF - I really get a lot of valuable highway information from the truckers country folk that still use 27Meg - so I decided to see if I could cut my Uniden 95sx dual band (UHF & 27meg) into the top of the panel.


Step 1 Mark it out carefully - LoL
Step 2 Remove the top by prying of the top plastic cover - rear first!
Step 3 Remove - unplug the Compass / direction sensor
Step 4 Using a sharp knife carefully cut out the top of the stereo
Step 5 Same Knife - cut the plastic top
Step 6 Test fit
Step 7 reconnect compass / direction sensor
Enjoy
cheers Hunty

[Hunty]

I wanted to add some switches to control;
Winch master power
Rear work Light
Arb Compressor
Front Spotlights
Map Lights
Fridge
CB GPS etc
I decided to install the daystar 4 rocker switch panel but I still wanted more switches - so on a recent SJC trip to the watagans I saw inside the trip leaders JK and noticed he had a nice commercial box installed above his mirror - that gave ma an idea - so (I'm guessing for a fraction of the cost)
I bought a second Daystar panel ($40 off Ebay USA including the switches fitted) and cut it down to fit the space above my mirror
Step 1 - Carefully measure the top panel and cut out a hole to install the daystar
Step 2 - cut down the daystar panel - as per pic
Step 3 - Test fit
Step 4 - Complete the wiring
Enjoy - Cheers Hunty








ps - I have since burried the cb in the top panel.

[Hunty]

I finally decided to give my JK some cool clean air to breath so I jumped onto Ebay and bought the "direct4x4accessories" fed through the top of the bonnet edition - delivered for under $300 plus they gave me a free tactical police style led torch!


I was very nervous about cutting into my beautiful JK body to install this so I applied the old adage "measure twice & cut once" - even still I was $hitting myself when I began to drill.


The instructions that came were very good! so I will just add my 2cents and hopefully anybody who reads this will benefit a little bit from my stress LoL


I held the Snorkel in place against my Jeep just to see how it looked and to discover if my light bar would get in the way - and I soon realised not only it would get in the way but also my Mirror relocation brackets would also!


So the mirror relocation brackets are up for sale $50 and there yours - (just pm me).


I started early this morning and the bonnet was still a little wet - which was good because when I laid the supplied template on the bonnet it immediately stuck!


The instructions said to lay it (the template) 19mm from the indent made for the hood latch - but I (stupidly) did not trust this - so I went to great lengths to move the template around until I thought it was in the perfect position wasted about 30min doing this and after I had finally placed it where I thought it looked best - i measured it to see how far different I had it compared to the instructions and %uck me it was exactly 19mm from the latch LoL LoL.


I then got my pocket knife and traced out the template pushing just hard enough to scratch my Jeeps bonnet - see picture - I also centre punched the jeep for the hole saw!


Next I cut the holes - and yes people I know I used a wood hole saw D'oh! its all I had!


I went to bunnings and bought an angle grinder and very thin cutting disc - both on special cost less than $20 for both!


Tip 1 I removed the bonnet insulation so I could see what I was cutting into - it was quite easy - just carefully prise off the 3 stupid plastic christmas tree type fasteners.


TIP 2 when cutting with the angle grinder the steel of the bonnet will get very hot so I chose to cut with the garden hose running water onto the bonnet to keep it cool and prevent the paint from melting! - which I can assure you will if you don't keep it cool and then there will be tears LoL


I assembled the snorkel and attached all the mounting hardware - sealed it all with heaps of black silicon type stuff - also from bunnings


Lastly I riveted the supplied trim to the bonnet to finish off the job


Best of all - I have been driving around Sydney this morning for work and
I noticed on my scan gauge that the air temperature flowing into my engine was around 29 degrees C - the abient temp in Sydney at the time was 26C - which got me a barred up because I normally observe the air temp going into my engine any where from double the ambient to 86 - 90 degrees C !!!!!!!!!!!!


So if any of you have any smarts when it comes to the fuel efficiency of colder more dense air - I would certainly like to know if I can expect better performance and or better economy? now my engine is sucking down air thats at least 50C cooler


Lastly as you can see from the pix I need to make up 2 little black spacers for the windscreen pillar mount to keep the snorkel of my light bar - I just used 2 packets of washers this morning - so technically its still a work in progress!


Cheers Hunty

[Hunty]

[Hunty]

I threw a big end bearing 9,000km's ago and Jeep rebuilt my engine under warranty - I suspected it was an oil pressure / feed prob but the guys at Jeep service didnt - so less than 1000km's later threw another big end bearing - thankfully Jeep gave me another short motor and this time fixed the oil problem! under warranty !!!!!!!


So I decided at the very least I should keep an eye on the oil pressure!


1. spent too long looking around under the JK bonnet for the sender.
2. Gave up because;


a) - didnt want to disconnect the factory sender. - do want to get any factory alarms
b) - didnt want to put a Tpiece on the factory sender - wouldnt fit either.


3. looked on ebay for a sandwich plate adapter $20

4. simple install - just remove the oil filter and screw the adapter in
5. connect up gauge in cab! - too easy LoL


Added bonus - the sandwich plate adapter has 2 spare connectors - so in future if i wish i can add another oil cooler!
enjoy
cheers Hunty

[Hunty]

Hey all
as those of you with JK's know all to well , Satans sauna resides under most of our bonnets!


Whilst I was installing my snorkel the sleeve of my T-shirt got caught on one of the little clips that holds the radiator over flow pipe and with virtually no force at all it snapped off!
Upon investigation I discovered that the plastic is extremely brittle - and I put that down to the fact that it is @#$%'n hot under there!


Solution
$1.00 bonnet scoop (Ebay of course) + postage


As some of you already know I installed my snorkel and after you have made one giant hole in the bonnet a second smaller one isn't that scary! LoL - ok yes it is - I think I will always $hit myself when I attack my beautiful Jeep with an angle grinder


1. Mark out a suitable area - I decided that just behind the bonnet re in-forcing - ie between the strap attachment point and the windscreen water jet would be overall the best place - I certainly was not going to cut into the bonnet sub frame!


2. Using a very thin disc cut out the desired area - be very carefull when cutting with a disc as the heat build up will melt your bonnet paint - i ran a hose on the bonnet whilst I cut to dissipate the heat


3. Good luck trying to find the centre of the bonnet - I guessed it with my eye - it looked wrong - I measured it with a tape - still looked wrong - I think its because the rubber windscreen stoppers are not exactly in the centre of the water jet or??
anyway I just threw 2 "L" plates on the bonnet and peeled off the double sided tape backing and with my fingers crossed and a prayer dropped the scoop on the bonnet!


4. in hind sight - I should have spray painted the scoop first - I originally thought why bother painting a black plastic scoop on a black plastic Jeep LoL


Cheers Hunty

[Hunty]

I have just pulled it off and turned it around, apparently the windscreen creates a high pressure system just above the cabin air intake that makes the reverse scoop idea DUMB! - However the heat will still rise up and out when wheelin in 4x4 Low and I can get a heap more air under the hood at speed - well thats my theory and I'm sticking with it
cheers Hunty

[Hunty]

Finally got a winch
picked it up whilst in the USA for $290 and it came with genuine dyneema rope - smuggled it home in my suitcase lol

[Hunty]

Another Mod that really made a huge difference - I picked the rancho's up cheap from the AJOR classifieds and could not be happier! - if i want to run like a pensioner and float on a cloud I select setting 1 .
If I want to go hard on the tar or I load it up with fat @sses, rooftop tent and trailer I turn em up to 4 or 5 for a really nice tight ride.


I added the shock relocation brackets to ensure the shocks didnt hit the chasis!


So this is what I learnt whilst installing the Ranchos


1. They don't fit out of the box & clash with the rear sway bar.
2. They are awesome - have improved my ride outta sight!
3. its a relatively easy adjustment / fix to make them fit.


The front Ranchos installed easily and fitted very well but the rear Ranchos ext reservoir outlet / connection was positioned exactly on top of the sway bar and if installed as is & without modification would definitely get broken off first time out wheelin.


I am sure there are many solutions however the one I chose not only makes space for the ranchos but also gives a little help to the rear sway bar.


I added a small block to lower the the sway bar mount on both sides and now there is ample clearance


I hope this info is useful to those of you with JK's and Adjustable Rancho's with Ext reservoirs


cheers Hunty

[Hunty]

Hi Guyz
I finally got around to completing a project that has been in my head for years; turn my front bar into an air tank so I can run a rattle gun whilst out wheelin on a tough trail!


I installed my ARB compressor in behind my spare wheel - mainly because under the bonnet of my JK the temperature reaches that of Satans BBQ!


I then welded up the ends of my front bar to make it Air tight - drilled and tapped a brass drain plug and installed a quick release air outlet with non return valve.


I wanted to know the pressure so I added a PSI gauge to the right of my steering wheel.


Finally today I charged it up to 100psi (recommended by the manufacturer of my rattle gun) and attempted to get 1 of the wheel studs off that had been rattled on by an intellectually challenged tyre monkey! LoL - so tight that I bent my wheel brace trying to loosen it!


I hope you enjoy the write up as much as I will enjoy having my rattle gun on the trails
cheers
Hunty


ps - the last 2 pix are photobucket videos - just click in the middle of them to watch.