JKU Rubicon Vs JKU Rubicon X

[Paul-JK]

35's will fit under a 2" lift if you really want to, though you might not have much up travel.
Probably better a 3" lift. You'll need wider flares anyway to cover them I'd expect and getting some flat flares will give you more space for the tyres to move into allowing you keep the lift to a minimum.
With a 3" lift you might get away without aftermarket rear control arms and new front & rear drive shafts but if you go higher than that then I'd expect you'll need them.

Just out of curiosity, why the 35's? A JK on a 2" lift and 33's will do most things you'd ever need. The slightly lower lift will be a cheaper as it'll not need as many parts and a Rubi on 33's will drive perfectly OK. Not sure how it will go on 35's or whether you'd eventually want to re-gear.

Poison Spyder have a good name. I think all of their stuff is well regarded, though I've not used any personally.

[AV8]

Thanks Paul. Had 33s on 4" JKU rental and you're quite right, it'll do most trail. We got stuck on some of the harder stuff when others on 35s and up were passing us by. Wanna climb some rocks. Not sure at this stage, just sussing things out. I may take your advice and go 33s

I'll speak to Shents and Stu Murchison for a lift kit as well.

Cheers

[Steve F]

I'm going with 33's on my JK but if it was a JKU I'd look at 34's or 35's just because of the ramp over. In saying that, if you can keep it legal so much the better

Cheers
Steve

[Paul-JK]

There's no denying that a JK on 35's will climb more stuff than a JK on 33's, especially a JKU with it's average ramp over angle BUT the extra things you'll need to run 35's (extra height in the lift so probably adjustable control arms, 2 new drive shafts, aftermarket wheels, new flares, possible re-gear.......) will more than double the cost of the lift over just running 33's. That's a lot of coin for the ability to drive the few tracks that 33's won't get you through.

Would I like a JK running on 35's? Absolutely! Can I justify the $ to achieve it? Absolutely not. Guess it just depends on how you intend to use it and how deep your pockets are.

On a slightly more boring but practical note, if it's your DD and you expect to get into city centre car parks then you're going to struggle with 35's. I have a 2.5" lift and 33's and I have to be careful which car parks I use. Might not be a consideration for you but just thought I'd mention it.

[Dru]

Going through the same thing on the JK shorty. Both ATV and Shents have been fantastic. Presume lift details are similar on the JKU. If so what we have found is:

33's are fine on a 2.5" lift. 35's are fine on a 2.5" lift, but you need to swap to flat flares. The 35s need off set wheels and increase track. If I was starting from scratch it is probably what I would do.

With stock flares you need a 3.5" lift (presume 3" would be fine). They protrude the stock flares by approx 3/4". You either risk it with a stock look or get flare extenders.

The Mopar/AEV front bars are designed visually for stock flares. Would look funny with flats. As we bought the JK with a Mopar bar, we will stick with stock flares and go to the higher lift. There is no issue with Uneek and similar bars and the look with flaties

I like what I see and hear with the AEV kit. But it is suggested that I look to a full set of fully adjustable CAs when I talk A trail capable. $ add up. An alternative is a lift based on Synergy, which so far looks similar in $ to AEV but includes the CAs. I'm sure the alternatives don't stop there, but we will be going with one of these.

Tough choices! My head has been spinning for weeks trying to get to the bottom of it all.

Dru and Kerry

[dobbo56]

What's a good lift for 35s? I know WJs but a complete noooooob in JKs.
How are Poison Spyder Bumpers and Rocker Knockers? Any good?

Have a look a Andys Sliders, they bolt onto the chassis over the Rubicon sliders.

[AV8]

Tough choices! My head has been spinning for weeks trying to get to the bottom of it all.

Dru and Kerry

Barney in the weed. Here's another combo found:

FOX 2.0 Performance Series IFP Steering Stabilixer
FOX 2.0 Performance Series Reservoir 4" - 6" Shock - Front
FOX 2.0 Performance Series Reservoir 4" - 6" Shock - Rear
Synergy Front Lift Springs 4.5"
Synergy Rear Lift Springs 4.5"
Synergy Front Upper Control Arms (Pair)
Synergy Rear Upper Control Arms (Pair)
Synergy High Clearance Front Lower Control Arms (Pair)
Synergy Rear Lower Control Arms (Pair)
Synergy Chromoly Tie Rod
Synergy Steering Stabilizer Tie Rod Clamp
Synergy Extended Brake Line Kit Front & Rear
TeraFlex JK Speedbump 4" Kit
Teraflex Jeep JK Rear Trackbar Bracket
Synergy Jeep JK Track Bar Bracket - Front RHD
Synergy Jeep JK High Steer Drag Link
Synergy Jeep JK Drag Link Flip Adapter
DBOR Jeep JK Rear Swaybar Link

a lot of coin for the ability to drive the few tracks that 33's won't get you through.

Would I like a JK running on 35's? Absolutely! Can I justify the $ to achieve it? Absolutely not. Guess it just depends on how you intend to use it and how deep your pockets are.

On a slightly more boring but practical note, if it's your DD and you expect to get into city centre car parks then you're going to struggle with 35's. I have a 2.5" lift and 33's and I have to be careful which car parks I use. Might not be a consideration for you but just thought I'd mention it.

Yep, agree. They are real considerations, absolutely.

I'm going with 33's on my JK but if it was a JKU I'd look at 34's or 35's just because of the ramp over. In saying that, if you can keep it legal so much the better

Cheers
Steve

Def wanting to get it engineered. Dru's doing the same presumably?

Have a look a Andys Sliders, they bolt onto the chassis over the Rubicon sliders.

Wilco that, next Jeepers Creepers meeting.

Happy Halloween BTW! . Just ate some eye ball choc. Not bad.

cheers

[Dru]

I think I'm done with the engineering for now. Started with it being an absolute requirement, but it sort of loses when you know you are doing the right thing but need to fork out thousands in the hope they tick an obvious box. And an apparant lack of basic paperwork from "the industry".

doesnt change my thinking that those ADRs are really good guidance.

I may may go there, not at this stage though.

[AV8]

Had a look at the Switchblade rear bar... Great looking bar but no longer avlbl unfortunately.

[Dieselcon]

Barney in the weed. Here's another combo found:

FOX 2.0 Performance Series IFP Steering Stabilixer
FOX 2.0 Performance Series Reservoir 4" - 6" Shock - Front
FOX 2.0 Performance Series Reservoir 4" - 6" Shock - Rear
Synergy Front Lift Springs 4.5"
Synergy Rear Lift Springs 4.5"
Synergy Front Upper Control Arms (Pair)
Synergy Rear Upper Control Arms (Pair)
Synergy High Clearance Front Lower Control Arms (Pair)
Synergy Rear Lower Control Arms (Pair)
Synergy Chromoly Tie Rod
Synergy Steering Stabilizer Tie Rod Clamp
Synergy Extended Brake Line Kit Front & Rear
TeraFlex JK Speedbump 4" Kit
Teraflex Jeep JK Rear Trackbar Bracket
Synergy Jeep JK Track Bar Bracket - Front RHD
Synergy Jeep JK High Steer Drag Link
Synergy Jeep JK Drag Link Flip Adapter
DBOR Jeep JK Rear

Running similar but with currie currentlync steering components and teraflex 9550 shocks. Flexes well